LadyHugs
Posts: 2299
Joined: 1/1/2004
Status: offline
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Dear petdave, Ladies and Gentlemen;
I can only speak for my organizational tastes however, I do not mix my groups. I put all impact toys together, bondage together and sex toys together. Your inventory is very pleasant.
I have used belt/tie racks as my flogger holders and I have paddles with loops on them as well. Those paddles without handles that have the handles to support hanging, you could use heavy rubberbands to loop and hang on hooks. I do like to keep my impact tools, e.g. floggers, canes, paddles, quirts, whips, cat-o-nines, flails, single tails away from any walls, drawer spaces and such. This is for sanitary reasons. Mold-mildew issues brew when moist from human fluid and or cleaning, circulating air is best. Resting on/against surfaces leather and some undressed rattan, reed and or wood groups will draw moisture. Solid paddles won't breath on a solid surface, thus wipe down of anti-bacterial and hanging them free makes me feel more comfortable. I solve the hanging like a hanger issue as to turn it as a display and access to all 'frontal' access' by hanging the tie/belt hanger on a looped chain, leather and or rope. If an opposite problem I hang a rope on the bar with a machine circle/loop (found in chain section of Home Depot/Lowes) hang where it is facing where you wish it--not all hangers have moving 'hook' ends.
I see there is no "First Aid" station or 'cleaning station.' Flashlights are a good idea to have handy, especially in a power outage or a blown fuse. Glow sticks could be used as to mark where emergency kit and or flashlights are. Shake and click on flashlights sold these days will not leave you guessing if you have battery life or not--self made power is a good idea for flashlights. Fire extinguishers and or blankets to put fire out won't be a bad idea as well. The 'drop and roll' etc.
For hanging restraints up, I use a slip knot. Pull one end and the knot is un-done and your restraints fall into your hands quickly. May want to consider using a length of chain and double end snap the cuffs to the chain, so it will look much like a row of cuffs. Small on top and bigger to the bottom. You can put a color tag as to denote the sizes as to devide them. These chains could hook to the false ceiling support beams and or be hooked to the pillars in your dungeon and hung to the height adjustment you prefer by just adusting the chain. Then double end snap or however you may wish to affix it.
I personally prefer keeping bulky furniture out of the dungeon, when it's use is only for supplies and not for dungeon use. I would put the items in a clear plastic tub you can find at Staples for $19.00. You can see your miles of rope, the clips and such. I would then make racks for them. Cinderblocks and boards work great for people on a budget. You can always wrap cinderblocks in wrapping paper--silver foil for example to keep it tidy. Old twin sheets can be wrapped around the boards. When dirty--just wash.
I have enjoyed using two different types of clothes racks, that are on sale in most 'houseware' stores-- that are on rollers/wheels which instantly transport your tools/toys about to the stations you may be working with. The single bar rack, you could create a wide seat swing as to lay things on, in addition to hanging floggers, whips and things from the bar using chains to have the hangers side by side. Your impact tools can be hung neatly and grabbed as you wish. My preferences are left to right; left light and all the way right would be heavy duty whips. I do the same with canes by diameter and length. (Yes, looks like chimes). I hang my paddles the same way. The fold out into an X rack gives you double space to hang things and easy to put into the closet when done.
Because I teach a lot, give presentations--I mark my floggers what kind of leather it is. I have 13 different kinds of floggers alone but, it gives people a "Whitman's Sampler" per se of choices and feel for themselves what might work best for them. I do this with quirts, canes, paddles, flails, horse whips/crops/bats and single tails. If I have an assistant and ask for a particular flogger--they will see the label. I prefer my whips not to touch each other, as not to contaminate one another.
As far as rope goes. I like hanging my rope and quick to use. It is pretty to put it into a nice bulky good looking design. However, I like rope to be 'in air.' Much like a Western Cowboy, I have my rope in circle form when in dungeons. I take a short bit of rope to 'tie' the rope in a slip knot and the tie rope is hooked by a double end snap to either chain or rope. For rope application, to 'stack' my rope--I take pencil or chop sticks, as skewer sticks are too flimsy, I then do a standard knot (like tying shoe) and stick the pencil/chop stick in the middle of the knot. This way when weight is on the knot the chop stick/pencil will keep it from being impossible to unknot it but, it acts like a 'T' to hang the rope from the arms and easy to access. If you use the tie rope, you can put a O ring in the knot and hang from these rings. The "D" ring works well also. I also find tagging the ends of the rope by dipping them in dye, I can tell what length of rope I have. Sometimes short rope is desired but, long lengths are all you can find at a moment's inspiration. So, I have different lengths in pairs as to create many different things. I also have the same system for chain, as I prefer chain bondage over rope. Locks are left unlocked and open and hang in the open spaces of the chain.
For some dungeon spaces, they come carpeted already. I have taken tile, or tongue and grove tiles you can find and lay it down for any wax, fire and or messy play. I also have it as close to the door as possible but, not as to block it in an emergency. Laying down plastic is great for clean up but, it also can errupt into flames fast--enveloping a person on a table in flames. This is why I prefer tile.
Whip zones are very important to me. I make sure there is a lot of space where I throw whips and make sure the ceiling is covered as not to snag on pipes, heating duct, lights, etc. I also make sure hooks, nails, sharp things are not in any zone area from head to thigh level. Should someone fall or in bondage collapse, I do not wish them to have an injury. So, anywhere thrashing bodies may be--I get the sharps away.
Knives. I find old knife blocks from kitchens great. One could make their own. Knives are ready to use and the business of pulling them out of their sheaths is bypassed.
Blood scenes. I know blood flies in the most tiny specks. I do hang a shower curtain in these areas. They make clear so your audience/guests can see. I prefer in a tile area and use items that can be sterilized and or replaced. If there are 'dedicated' tools/toys--I let these folks have a rack all their own but, I do not share racks--again cross contamination issues.
Just some thoughts.
Respectfully submitted for consideration,
Lady Hugs
< Message edited by LadyHugs -- 10/3/2007 9:30:54 PM >
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Keeping your toys organized! (playroom layout) - 
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RE: Keeping your toys organized! (playroom layout) - 
), and that's going to tear up a ton of space. 
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