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RE: flooring questions - 1/4/2013 10:16:11 AM   
OsideGirl


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quote:

ORIGINAL: mnottertail

in my house I have reasonably big areas, not huge, the outside square footage is 1182 I would assume that 10% or slightly more is taken up by walls in the house..and the interior of the exterior walls, so is that a reasonable number of square feet to buy outright or you think more?



Lumber Liquidators automatically figures the waste for you. So for instance, if you put in 300sf, it will tell you buy 342sf. That waste figure may be a little high on a large, regularly shaped rooms, but I've found it to be a really good guide.

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RE: flooring questions - 1/4/2013 10:17:04 AM   
Hillwilliam


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quote:

ORIGINAL: mnottertail

in my house I have reasonably big areas, not huge, the outside square footage is 1182 I would assume that 10% or slightly more is taken up by walls in the house..and the interior of the exterior walls, so is that a reasonable number of square feet to buy outright or you think more?

Measure the actual rooms and add 10%. You should get REALLY close.
As long as you don't buy someting on clearance if you need more, it should be there.
A compound miter saw is good to use. Dont use carbide tipped blades. Use plywood blades and count on replacing them. Laminate eats blades.
make sure you follow the instructions and leave 1/2 inch or so space between the floor and walls and just cover that with the molding. If you do it like hardwood and take it all the way to the wall, it will expand when it gets warm and you'll get a big BOW in the floor.

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RE: flooring questions - 1/4/2013 10:19:45 AM   
OsideGirl


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quote:

ORIGINAL: Hillwilliam


quote:

ORIGINAL: mnottertail

in my house I have reasonably big areas, not huge, the outside square footage is 1182 I would assume that 10% or slightly more is taken up by walls in the house..and the interior of the exterior walls, so is that a reasonable number of square feet to buy outright or you think more?

Measure the actual rooms and add 10%. You should get REALLY close.
As long as you don't buy someting on clearance if you need more, it should be there.
A compound miter saw is good to use. Dont use carbide tipped blades. Use plywood blades and count on replacing them. Laminate eats blades.
make sure you follow the instructions and leave 1/2 inch or so space between the floor and walls and just cover that with the molding. If you do it like hardwood and take it all the way to the wall, it will expand when it gets warm and you'll get a big BOW in the floor.


I've also found putting painters tape over the wood where you plan to cut keeps the wood from splintering from the cut.


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RE: flooring questions - 1/4/2013 11:45:34 AM   
calamitysandra


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Status: offline 		Easiest option would be to go with interlocking laminate. You can do that with almost no experience in home renovation at all. You could even lay it over the carpeting.
However,laminate should never be mopped wet, only slightly damp.

For water resistant and very durable, go with ceramic tiles. Those are definitely more work, but it is manageable.

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RE: flooring questions - 1/4/2013 11:50:53 AM   
defiantbadgirl


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Status: offline 		Thanks everyone. I really appreciate the advice.

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RE: flooring questions - 1/4/2013 11:56:44 AM   
LaTigresse


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Status: offline 		Also, when budgeting the cost of the flooring......consider what you will need to put down between your sub flooring and finished.

Example, if you have a wood sub floor now, and want to install ceramic tile, you can't put the ceramic tile directly on the wood flooring.

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RE: flooring questions - 1/4/2013 12:13:57 PM   
DomMeinCT


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quote:

ORIGINAL: calamitysandra

Easiest option would be to go with interlocking laminate. You can do that with almost no experience in home renovation at all. You could even lay it over the carpeting.
However,laminate should never be mopped wet, only slightly damp.

For water resistant and very durable, go with ceramic tiles. Those are definitely more work, but it is manageable.


Agree! Laminate and sitting water do not mix (although interlocking laminate is replaceable if a piece gets waterlogged).
Spills should be wiped up immediately, particularly those that end up on seams. I had a fridge leak water and it caused the edges of one of the laminate panels to curl and not lay flush.

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RE: flooring questions - 1/4/2013 2:01:42 PM   
calamitysandra


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quote:

ORIGINAL: LaTigresse

Example, if you have a wood sub floor now, and want to install ceramic tile, you can't put the ceramic tile directly on the wood flooring.



There is a special tile glue that enables you to do just that. A bit more expensive than the regular glue,but well worth it.

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RE: flooring questions - 1/4/2013 5:23:55 PM   
LookieNoNookie


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quote:

ORIGINAL: defiantbadgirl

I have pets and want to replace my carpet with hard flooring. Unfortunately, when I lifted my carpet, I found out whoever installed it used more than staples. From what I've read, glue removal is a slow process unless adhesive remover that contains toxic fumes is used and not removing it will result in bubbles. Does this mean I'm going to have to pay over a thousand dollars just to have my floors prepared in addition to installation? Is there any type of hard flooring that isn't extremely expensive, is easy to install, and can be installed without having to worry about removing this old glue? What are the least expensive and easiest options other than having more carpet put in, which I don't want to do?


Yes.

Sand, clear the floor from previous detritus, bring it down to wood....install.

(I'm here from 7 - 5 Pacific time).

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RE: flooring questions - 1/4/2013 6:45:05 PM   
PeonForHer


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quote:

ORIGINAL: littlewonder
So for the price you will pay to have your floor smoothed out for the vinyl, you may as well just buy laminate and underlayment.


I've used hardboard on top of rough floors before in order to create a smooth surface to take vinyl on top. Pretty cheap and easy to cut.



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RE: flooring questions - 1/4/2013 7:17:17 PM   
switchdavid69


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Status: offline 		I really don't know of anyone that would put any type of floor over carpet. It would be a real problem if any moisture got under the floor and into a carpet. Not a good idea in my mind..

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RE: flooring questions - 1/4/2013 7:48:16 PM   
OsideGirl


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Status: offline 		She didn't say she was putting it over carpet. She said that there is glue between the carpet and the sub-floor. She's concerned about the glue on the sub-floor causing problems with whatever she installs over it.

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RE: flooring questions - 1/5/2013 12:49:06 PM   
calamitysandra


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Status: offline 		I think he was responding to me putting laminate over carpet.

And of course I put a moisture barrier sheet thingy between the carpet and the laminate.

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RE: flooring questions - 1/5/2013 12:52:49 PM   
littlewonder


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quote:

ORIGINAL: PeonForHer


quote:

ORIGINAL: littlewonder
So for the price you will pay to have your floor smoothed out for the vinyl, you may as well just buy laminate and underlayment.


I've used hardboard on top of rough floors before in order to create a smooth surface to take vinyl on top. Pretty cheap and easy to cut.




Yes, I've done that as well. I had it done in my former home in the kitchen and it still tore and the vinyl I bought was not the cheap crap but imo, all vinyl is crap. As for laminate over carpet, even with a barrier, I would still think the carpet would get musty and eventually leach up through the floor.



< Message edited by littlewonder -- 1/5/2013 12:54:22 PM >

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RE: flooring questions - 1/5/2013 12:54:06 PM   
TheBoyDownBelow


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quote:

ORIGINAL: calamitysandra

And of course I put a moisture barrier sheet thingy between the carpet and the laminate.


The moisture barrier protect the laminate for getting wet, but you still have the problem of mold building in the carpet. IMO remove the carpet when ever possible. It is just to keep your living environment safe.

< Message edited by TheBoyDownBelow -- 1/5/2013 12:55:47 PM >

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RE: flooring questions - 1/5/2013 1:16:32 PM   
OsideGirl


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quote:

ORIGINAL: littlewonder
the vinyl I bought was not the cheap crap but imo, all vinyl is crap.


Linoleum is much better and greener, but costs more than vinyl.

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Profile   Post #: 36
RE: flooring questions - 1/5/2013 1:26:41 PM   
littlewonder


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Status: offline 		Yeah...it's a little better if you really wanna go for that look. The only reason I even put down vinyl was because it was cheap and I was remodeling my kitchen because I knew I would be selling the house and wanted to get a little more money from it. It was an old house with an old kitchen.





< Message edited by littlewonder -- 1/5/2013 1:27:37 PM >

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RE: flooring questions - 1/5/2013 2:30:05 PM   
kiwisub12


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Status: offline 		I just had my kitchen and back room redone - i was going to go with laminate, and the builder basically told me to save my money. With his advice i ended up with tile, because i needed to be able to steam my floors, especially around the parrots cages. It cost a fair bit more, but i shouldn't have to do a whole lot to it from now on - and the floor isn't level because of settling from the add-on.

I love it. Its cool under foot and easy to clean. The way to go for me. ........................................ and now all i have to do is have the rest of the house sanded and the hardwood stained and sealed. *sigh* It never ends.

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RE: flooring questions - 1/6/2013 6:33:49 AM   
LaTigresse


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quote:

ORIGINAL: calamitysandra


quote:

ORIGINAL: LaTigresse

Example, if you have a wood sub floor now, and want to install ceramic tile, you can't put the ceramic tile directly on the wood flooring.



There is a special tile glue that enables you to do just that. A bit more expensive than the regular glue,but well worth it.



Certainly you can.......but you also run the risk of the tile and grout cracking. Wood is less rigid therefor, as weather and climate changes, even as weight moves across the wood, it expands, contracts, and gives to some degree. Especially in an older house of questionable pedigree. If you put down the cement board subflooring that is made especially for this, it will help avoid the cracking of tiles and the cement grout. Giving additional support to the tiles.

Been there, done that..got the t-shirt. Nothing more fun than peeling up ceramic tiles that looked so awesome a year or two ago but are now cracking and ugly.

< Message edited by LaTigresse -- 1/6/2013 6:36:40 AM >

_____________________________

My twisted, self deprecating, sense of humour, finds alot to laugh about, in your lack of one!

Just because you are well educated, articulate, and can use big, fancy words, properly........does not mean you are right!

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Profile   Post #: 39
RE: flooring questions - 1/6/2013 6:55:03 AM   
MariaB


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Status: offline 		Here in France we have solid wood floors that are at least a couple of hundred years old. Having a wet dog or cat walking on this kind of floor doesn't do it any favors and neither does animal claws which have a tendency to scratch wood.
I mop these wooden floors at least twice a week with white vinegar and water but I make sure the mop is very well wrung out. I then run oil soap over the surface to give it a sheen.

If I was having animals in the house on a regular basis I would be looking at stone/tile flooring. I personally hate carpet and that plastic laminate looks like plastic laminate.

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