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Termyn8or -> RE: car issues (12/3/2011 9:55:34 PM)
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Badgirl, find someone, like on graigslist or something, who will do a compression check on it for like twenty bucks. Give me the readings.
There is a slight possibility the engine has a cracked block, and in most states that is actionable, but in this case against the mechanic. (maybe, if you can prove a couple things)
I suspect this mechanic told the guy to sell this car quick.
I just need a standard compression test ran, and the VIN of the car, but change the last four digits to XXXX to protect your identity. This should look like "
#1 120
#2 110
#3 133
#4 141
Some shit like that.
And then do a test yourself. Open up where you put oil in. Take a piece of newspaper and put it over the hole (ETA with the engine running at idle in neutral or park), it should be sucked to it by the PCV system. If it flaps, like puffs you may have a cracked block or piston or something. However it may still just be the head. If the paper sticks with no pulsing in the airflow, no compression or exhaust is leaking into the crankcase.
Through the block and heads there are ports which carry intake, exhaust and coolant. Cracks make something leak. When intake leaks into the crankcase sometimes fuel goes down there thinning the oil. This is an insidious problem you could have for a year. If exhaust leaks into the crankcase (rare) it's not always from the heads. This causes oil to pool up under the valve covers and this in effect, makes it low on oil whenever it's running. If coolant leaks into the crankcase you got big problems as it wrecks the bearings.
If that happens it will not be as good, lower oil pressure, generally acting like an engine with a hell of alot more miles on it. Just shitty. It takes a real rebuild to correct that. Well maybe not everything but at least rod bearings, probably mains. Cam bearings, well you can get away without them but they will always be loose and not hold good oil pressure. (if the engine gets ran with the glycol in the oil much)
T^T
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